Research
Research overview
A great deal is written about skin, and far from all of it is based on verified data. Here we explain where knowledge about skin care comes from, how the different sources differ, and how to tell reliable information from sales copy.
The louder the promise on the package, the more carefully you should read the fine print. Reliable knowledge about skin sounds modest and almost always comes with caveats.
Where knowledge about skin comes from
| Source | What it is | Limitations |
|---|---|---|
| Doctors' observations | The experience of dermatologists who see many patients and notice patterns | One doctor's experience may not reflect the bigger picture |
| Clinical studies | Testing a skin care approach or treatment on a group of people according to a plan described in advance | There may be few participants, and study conditions differ from everyday life |
| Systematic reviews | A combined analysis of many studies on a single question | A review is only as reliable as the studies it includes |
| Recommendations from international organizations | Generalized advice, such as the WHO guide to the UV index | They apply to people in general and don't account for an individual's specifics |
| Manufacturer testing | Safety and performance tests of a product run or commissioned by the manufacturer | The manufacturer has a stake in the outcome, and details often aren't published |
| Reviews and blogs | Personal impressions of buyers and writers online | One case proves nothing, and some reviews are written for payment |
How to read cosmetics marketing and skin news
Separate sales copy from reference information
The front of a package and a bright banner are written to attract buyers. The ingredient list, directions and warnings are usually on the back — start there.
Pin down what exactly is promised
Words like “glow,” “reset” and “healthy skin” sound pleasant but don't measure anything. Ask yourself what specific result is promised and how it could be checked.
Ask who it was tested on
The word “tested” without details means little. What matters is how many participants there were, whether they were compared with people who didn't use the product, and who ran the test.
Tell a news story from a study
A news item often retells a single study and simplifies its conclusions. Results from cells in a test tube or from animals don't yet tell us what will happen to human skin.
Be wary of fear and urgency
If a text frightens you with “dangerous substances” and immediately offers a solution, with a discount “today only,” you're looking at a sales pitch, not reference information.
Check with a professional
If a news story or a promise concerns your skin directly, discuss it with a dermatologist before changing anything in your skin care or treatment.
Skin myths
- “Natural means safe.” Plant ingredients can also cause irritation and allergies; where a substance comes from doesn't guarantee it will suit your skin
- “Skin detox.” Skin doesn't store up “toxins” that need to be flushed out with special products; the body's internal organs handle cleansing, and such promises are a marketing image
- “If it stings, it's working.” Stinging and redness are signs of irritation, not benefit; a product that acts this way is better washed off
- “The sun isn't dangerous on a cloudy day.” Clouds let some ultraviolet through, so go by the UV index, not by how warm it feels
- “A tan protects you from the sun.” A tan doesn't replace shade, clothing and sunscreen; it's a sign that your skin has already received ultraviolet
- “The more you wash, the healthier your skin.” Washing too often and with hot water strips the skin of its own protection and makes dryness worse
See also
- Methods
Sun protection, cleansing and moisturizing, calmly keeping an eye on your skin, and photos for comparison.
- Sources
What this reference is based on, how we select information, and where the limits of our texts lie.
- Glossary
Skin words in plain language: from epidermis and melanin to patch test and placebo.
- Questions
Questions about sun, dryness, irritation and moles that are worth discussing with a dermatologist or primary care doctor.
Sources
- WHO — Global Solar UV Index: A Practical Guide
- Manufacturers' directions for cosmetic products
- General dermatologist recommendations on skin care
This page reflects generally accepted views on skin care as of the date it was prepared. If your skin behaves unusually or something worries you, make decisions together with a dermatologist, not based on the text of this reference.